Attic or Ceiling Insulation

An attic with too little insulation is wasting your energy dollars both winter and summer. Insulation is designed to resist heat flow in either direction and should be installed between conditioned and unconditioned areas of a home. The most common forms of insulation include fiberglass batts and cellulose or fiberglass loose fill.

Loose fill fiberglass and cellulose or fiberglass batt insulation are relatively inexpensive, and usually pays for itself in two to eight years, depending on the situation. Fiberglass batts can be easily installed by the average homeowner. Cellulose or loose fiberglass is typically installed using an insulation blowing machine. For small areas or "topping off" existing insulation, either material can be poured and spread out by hand. For larger areas, consider using an insulation contractor or check into the possibility of renting an insulation blower.

Insulation levels are referred to by R-value. The R-value of a given insulation material is an indication of how well it resists the transfer of heat. The higher the R-value, the more it will reduce heat loss or gain.

The first step in determining the need for more insulation is to measure the existing insulation. Keep in mind that adding more insulation has diminishing returns. For example, the first R-11 of ceiling insulation pays for itself very quickly, whereas the next R-11 added will have a longer payback.

Attic Insulation

The amount of insulation you can install in your attic is determined by the size of the joists and whether or not your attic has a floor. A settled density of R-30 is preferable in most instances, but is not always possible. You will also want to determine whether to install fiberglass or cellulose.

You or the contractor you hire should complete a number of preliminary steps before insulating your attic, as follows:

• Identify all recessed lighting fixtures, vents, chimneys, and other heat producing devices in all areas where insulation is to be installed. Block off recessed light fixtures with a sheet metal barrier or any number of products commercially available. Blocking must be at least as high as the height of the finished insulation and in a manner that ensures that all devices which may require maintenance or service remain accessible after the insulation is installed. A three inch minimum clearance between the fixture and the insulation must be maintained. In addition, do not cover recessed light fixtures. A clearance of three inches must also be maintained between chimneys, flues, vents, or other heat sources.

• Inspect the room, ceiling, or attic floor to identify previous or current moisture problems. Signs include paint peeling, warpage, stain, fungus growth, rotting, or other structural damage. Do not install insulation in these areas until any moisture problems have been corrected.

• Inspect the ceilings to ensure they will carry the weight of the insulation. (In most cases this is not a concern, as both fiberglass and cellulose weigh very little.)

• Install permanent blocking to prevent loose-fill insulation from clogging soffit vents at the eaves. (This would restrict attic ventilation.)

• Cover wall and drop ceiling cavities to prevent filling these areas with insulation.

• If knob and tube wiring is present, a licensed electrician should certify that insulation can be safely installed.

• Once the above steps have been completed, insulate all attic areas to the maximum settled density possible, usually R-30. A floored attic may limit the amount of insulation that can be installed. To maximize your energy savings, insulate all attic entryways such as hatchway openings, kneewall access doors, and walk-up stairways.

Attic Ventilation

Here is a basic rule to keep in mind: Never install insulation in an attic space unless adequate and permanent ventilation exists or can properly be installed. Attic ventilation reduces summer heat build-up and prevents winter moisture condensation. Both problems can be costly and damaging, and both can be virtually eliminated by effective attic ventilation.

Differences in home construction and design are a major factor in choosing the right type or combination of vents. Vent location, style, and size are all factors to consider when insulating your attic.

A qualified contractor will know the formula by which to determine how much ventilation you will require. Important factors in the formula include the existence of vapor retarders, location of existing ventilation in relation to the eaves, and square footage of the attic.

The contractor should be able to tell you the type, number, and location of all vents to be installed. Choices will include roof vents, gable end louvers, rectangular louvers, soffit vents, ridge vents, and turbine vents. It goes without saying that all necessary precautions should be taken to ensure a watertight installation.